View from the aerial tram, Jackson Hole. Photo by Lori Mccaffrey

Boulder
Not-to-miss hikes: Mt. Sanitas from the top of Mapleton Street, Royal Arch from Chatauqua, and Bear Peak from NCAR. Not-to-miss shopping: the Pearl Street walking mall. Not-to-miss fine dining: Frasca (exquisite and expensive), Jax (best seafood), and Beau Jo’s Pizza (honey-infused crusts). Not-to-miss tour: the Celestial Seasonings tea factory.

Cheyenne
Home to Frontier Days, one of the most popular rodeo and Western heritage festivals in the Rockies.

Denver
The Mile High City has all of your major-metro attractions: pro football, baseball, hockey, and basketball; endless restaurants and nightlife; and every type of shopping you could want. Our picks for fun family entertainment: the Botanical Gardens and Museum of Nature and Science, which is loaded with interactive exhibits.

Ft. Collins
Located east of Estes Park where the foothills meet the plains, this city of 150,000 is home to Colorado State University and New Belgium Brewery, two of the most beloved institutions on the Front Range.

Grand Junction
Gateway to Colorado National Monument, this western-Colorado city is a good midway point to overnight on your way to or from Moab. Located on I-70 about 5 hours from Denver, it’s also a popular basecamp for mountain bikers who ride the singletrack threading through nearby canyons and desert.

Greeley
Spanning two weeks in late June and early July, the Greeley Stampede is part rodeo, part concert, part county fair, part carnival, and part food festival. In other words, a true slice of deep-fried, bull-riding, beer-drinking Americana. If that dose of cowboy culture puts you in the Western mood, head over to Greeley Hat Works to get measured for a custom hat from one of the top makers in the U.S.

Jackson Hole
Located just south of Grand Teton National Park and just an hour from Yellowstone, this town has world-class terrain for outdoor sport: skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing, rafting, mountain biking, fishing, and hunting. Celebrity sightings aren’t unusual; on our last visit, we spotted Dick Cheney. Elk and wolf sightings are even more common–and infinitely more satisfying. Not-to-miss tourist spot: the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar on town square, where the bar stools are saddles.

Laramie
Home to the University of Wyoming, this large city (by Wyoming standards) is a good midway stopover on trips between Yellowstone or Jackson and Estes/Boulder.

Moab
Adventure capital of redrock country, this southern Utah hot spot overflows with mountain bikers, rafters, hikers, and ORVers in spring and fall. The terrain is good enough that it’s worth facing the crowds, or you can risk cooler weather and avoid lines by going before April 1 or after October 15.

Rapid City
Start here if you want to include Badlands scenery and Mt. Rushmore on your vacation. Also nearby: Sturgis, the site of a famous (and massive) annual motorcycle rally.

Salt Lake City
Famous for its skiing, hiking, and Mormon history, this city at the foot of the Wasatch Range is a major airline hub and excellent starting point for vacations to the national parks of Utah, Arizona, and Colorado. While in town, don’t miss a tour of the Mormon Tabernacle and headquarters.

Steamboat Springs
About two hours west of Grand Lake, this ski town has excellent dining and shopping–plus world-class hot springs and downhill skiing just minutes away.

Courtesy Photo

Grand Lake

Located just minutes from the western entrance to RMNP, this charming town looks out over its namesake, the deepest natural lake in Colorado. It’s a quieter alternative to Estes Park, with lodging that feels more rustic and homey. Look for deals on hotels and restaurants at grandlakechamber.com.

TOP 3 THINGS TO DO
Watch Fireworks on the Fourth of July
The town claims to put on Colorado’s largest Independence Day pyrotechnics—in a setting that’s tailor-made for patriotic emotions. In fact, with Grand Lake’s mountainous skyline and bluebird days, you half expect a bald eagle to fly through the show.

Shop Grand Avenue
Stroll the historic wooden boardwalk past 60 shops and restaurants to pick up souvenirs, Western clothing, and tasty treats. Bored husbands can park themselves in one of several saloons for a sip of something local.

Climb to an Amazing View
Head to the east end of Shadow Mountain Lake and hike 3.3 miles (one way) to reach the landmark Shadow Mountain Fire Lookout. The three-story tower was built in 1930 and offers wraparound views of the lake and park.

Granby

This mostly residential community sits between Grand Lake and Winter Park along the Upper Colorado River, here a small, slow stream that’s a mere hint of the roaring giant it becomes 100 miles downstream.
Rent a Private Getaway
With little commercial buildup and a lot of scenery, Granby is the perfect place to rent a cabin for a quiet week of relaxing. Many offer excellent hiking, and few don’t have wildlife grazing outside. Check Craigslist and granbychamber.com for listings.

Fish and Boat Pristine Waters
With some of the highest-elevation marinas in the North America, abundant trout, and crystal-clear waters reflecting snow-capped mountains, the three lakes in the Granby and Grand Lake area can be a vacation all by themselves. Boat rentals and slips are available on each lake, and you’ll find fishing gear and guides up and down the valley.

Get on a Horse (or Sleigh)
Several outfits in Granby like Sombrero Stables and High Country Trails offer trail, hay, and sleigh rides along the park’s border, and Shadow Mountain Ranch has ride-and-stay packages. Interested in a chuckwagon dinner? Check granbychamber.com for offers.

Winter Park

A hopping ski town in winter, this full-service stop at the south end of the Fraser Valley is an excellent place to stock up on essentials for camping and cabin life. It also offers every type of cuisine you might want, as well as year-round activities and events (see playwinterpark.com for listings and offers).

Ride into the Sky
See the photo below for proof that Grand Adventure Balloon’s trips are worthwhile.

Ski or Pedal the Slopes
The adjoining Winter Park and Mary Jane resorts are known for their intermediate and mogul runs, respectively, and the mountain biking in summer is four-star, too.

Devour Some Tasty BBQ
After a hard day outdoors, treat yourself to a full slab of tangy goodness at Smokin’ Moe’s Ribhouse in Cooper Creek Square downtown.

Photo by Jon Dorn

Estes Park

One of the most picturesque mountain towns in America, Estes sits at 7,522 feet and borders the southeastern part of the park. It’s home to thriving communities of artists, second-home retirees, and all types of outdoor enthusiasts. A quiet hamlet in the winter, its hotels and campgrounds fill up quickly in summer–so plan your trip early.
Lodging, Dining, and Events
The visitors’ bureau (estesparkcvb.com) maintains the most comprehensive index of restaurants, hotels, and lodges in the area.

Top 5 Things To Do
Sleep at the Stanley Hotel

Built in 1907-1909 by inventor F.O. Stanley (of Stanley Steamer fame), this 140-room landmark has slept hundreds of famous guests, including Stephen King, who began writing The Shining in room 217. Book one of the deluxe rooms (many are rumored to be haunted), or take the popular ghost tour ($15 adults, $10 ages 5-10; book in advance at stanleyhotel.com or 970-577-4110).

Learn How the Mountain Men Lived
Pioneer survival skills performed by men and women in period costume are the main attraction at the Heritage Festival, usually held in the town square in the third or fourth week of August. If you want to see how the early fur trappers and gold miners hand-built their log cabins, turned elk hides into clothing, or foraged for medicinal herbs, this is the event for you. Learn more at estesparkcvb.com.

Go Family-Style at the YMCA
Think every Y is a community gym with a few lockers and a pool? Think again. Set on a forested compound overlooking Estes, the YMCA of the Rockies is a family-oriented camp with rustic wooden lodges and dining halls straight out of a national park postcard. Recently renovated, it books early, thanks in part to kid-friendly accommodations and numerous on-site activities.

Hang Out With a Famous Yogi
No, not the cartoon bear–we’re talking about a special opportunity to mingle with gurus from the yoga world. Every September, hundreds of yoga enthusiasts descend on the YMCA for several days of practice with teachers like Seane Corn, Baron Baptiste, and Shiva Rea. Attracting beginners and experts alike, the Yoga Journal-hosted event is a dabbler’s paradise, with everything from kundalini chanting to vinyasa flow and power yoga–all in the shadow of glorious autumn-yellow aspens. More info: yjevents.com

Attend the Rooftop Rodeo
Named “the best small rodeo in America,” this six-day festival in mid-July features steer wrestling, team roping, barrel racing, bull riding, and our favorite event, mutton busting, in which youngsters try to ride befuddled sheep across the fairgrounds. Trust us, it’s a hilarious sight. rooftoprodeo.com

Lyons

Thirty minutes east and 2,500 feet downhill from Estes Park, this town hosts a bunch of funky shops, restaurants, and events. On the main drag if you’re coming from Denver, Boulder, Longmont, or Greeley, it’s a great place to stop for a beer, burger, or concert.

Lodging, Dining, and Events
The town is small enough to drive in about 7 minutes, but for listings that include calendars and a few finds tucked away in the outskirts go to lyons-colorado.com.

Top 5 Things To Do
Listen to World-Class Folk Music
On July 27-29, the 40th annual RockyGrass music festival will entertain thousands in a sylvan venue beside the St. Vrain River. Reserve tickets early, because it typically sells out, and arrive well before noon each day to claim the best spot for your blanket and picnic basket. Previous lineups have included Earl Scruggs, Yonder Mountain String Band, the Waifs, Steve Earle, and Nickel Creek. Tickets and info: bluegrass.com/rockygrass

Drink “The World’s Best Canned Beer”
Oskar Blues might be the most popular burger joint and microbrewery on the Front Range, and it’s the proud maker of award-winning Dale’s Pale Ale. The deck is made for lazy summer afternoons (slather on the sunscreen), and the downstairs features live blues music at night. Tip: Order the buffalo burger and upgrade to sweet potato fries.

Float Past Town on the St. Vrain River
Most locals bring their own tubes, but you can buy one for $10 at a gas station. Prime time is early August, when the water is warm and running not too high, not too low.

Ride Scenic Singletrack
Just south of town on CO 7, Hall Ranch offers sweet mountain biking, with technical climbs and exhilarating high-country loops through wildflowers and fragrant spruce forest. Bring your bike or rent in Lyons or Boulder.

Relax With a Cuppa J

oe
The Stone Cup (below, on High Street) is like Cheers for the coffee crowd: a place where everyone seems to know each other and where the mood is always friendly. We love the cinnamon rolls, which sell out almost instantly, and the Bhakti chai, a spicy tea and milk concoction that’s only found locally.

2. Hike at a leisurely pace so you can look and listen for animal signs. Stop frequently to scan your surroundings and watch for motion.

3. Take long breaks.
Stop at vantage points overlooking (and downwind of) meadows, watering holes, and likely travel corridors, like game trails, and wait for wildlife to appear.

4. Hike in the right weather.
›› Overcast Many animals are
most active on cloudy days,
since scorching sun drives them into the shade, while rain sends them to their dens or bedding grounds.
›› No wind Your scent isn’t as likely to reach wildlife. Plus, animals,
like people, tend to hunker down
in high winds.
›› Stable Some animals react to coming fronts by bedding down.

5. Call wildlife biologists (at the park or a nearby university) and rangers; ask where animals concentrate. Most public agencies also post wildlife guides online.

6. Keep binocs/camera handy.
Rooting for them will scare off the animal.

7. Look for parts and portions. You’re more likely to spot a beak, tail, or antler than the entire animal.

8. Practice “scatter vision.”
Keep your eyes moving without letting them settle on one focal point (like the trail). This improves your ability to take in the whole scene and spot motion.

9. Sneak up ridges.
When you’re about to crest a ridge, slow down, get quiet, and peek over the edge, so you can spy on animals on the far side.

10. Observe prey animals.
If all the elk in a herd suddenly look in one direction, it’s an obvious sign that a wolf or bear is nearby.

Photo by Zach Hampton

In busy national parks like Rocky Mountain, a never-ending supply of interesting food smells, picnic crumbs, and forgotten leftovers draws all sorts of creatures to the campgrounds in search of easy calories. From pesky field mice and chipmunks to more-problematic skunks and bears, they flock in at night–and often during mealtime, especially in places where habituation has made them bolder.
Habituation happens where humans offer rewards–typically by giving handouts to little beggars–and where the creatures suffer no penalty for coming close to feed. Over time, this breaks down the natural fear that animals have for humans, and can result in nuisance behavior, like the time a camp mouse chewed through my tent in the Grand Canyon in search of an energy bar wrapper my daughter forgot to pack away.
Feeding animals–or being careless with your food–can lead to more distressing encounters, though. On another trip, this time in Olympic National Park, I spent 20 minutes standing on a picnic table while a skunk–clearly conditioned to expect goodies from campers–sniffed around underneath. And I’ve lain awake at night in my tent listening to bears rustle through my kitchen area in search of treats.
For wild animals, the risk of food conditioning is twofold. First, if they substitute campground raids for natural foraging behavior, they get hooked on foods that are seasonally ephemeral and don’t provide the nutrition they need (Fritos, anyone?). Second, the raids bring them in closer contact with humans, and sooner or later a snarl or defensive snap will put a bulls-eye on them. A summer doesn’t go by without a “nuisance” bear (or three) getting relocated or exterminated in the national parks.
For humans, the risk ranges from annoying visits to terrifying intrusions. Bear encounters are extremely rare these days, thanks to better park policies around food storage and wildlife deterrence, but you–as a camper–are the first and most effective line of defense. How you handle and store food determines whether you prevent–or invite–an encounter.

Follow these simple tips to reduce the odds:

Frontcountry
›› Pack all food and toiletry items in the campgrounds’ metal bear boxes whenever you’re not cooking or eating. Never leave munchies or toothpaste in your tent or sitting on a picnic table while you’re gone–even when you head to the restrooms for a shower.

›› Keep food that you’re storing in your car in the trunk—not in plain sight on the backseat. Bears have been known to smash windows to reach items they recognize as yummy snacks.

›› Wash dishes and utensils immediately after cooking, and store them in the bear boxes. Toss used paper plates and other trash in secure bins, not in a trash bag you hang from a tree in camp.
Backcountry
›› Store all food and toiletry items in the hard-sided food canisters that RMNP requires backpackers to carry. Rent them in town at the Mountain Shop, Warming House, or Hiking Hut outdoor stores.

›› Situate your camp kitchen at least 200 feet away from your tent to keep food smells away from where you’re sleeping.

›› If a bear approaches while you’re cooking, don’t attempt to defend your food. Knock over the pots to give the bruin as little reward as possible, but don’t put your life at risk to prevent habituation.

Photo by Mike Amfar

DAYHIKE
Sky Pond via Lake Haiyaha
Seven lakes, two gorgeous waterfalls, and acres of columbine—this 10-miler packs in east-of-the-Divide delights. From Bear Lake, hike 1.1 miles to Dream Lake; follow the Lake Haiyaha Trail to Glacier Knobs. Take the Loch Vale Trail past the Loch and Glass Lake to Sky Pond, nestled below the Sharkstooth and Petit Grepon spires. Return to Glacier Knobs and continue down the Loch Vale Trail for two miles, past Alberta Falls, to reach a short traverse back to Bear Lake.

WEEKEND AND LONGER
Moraine Park to Bear Lake Loop
A wildlife-rich route with lakeside camping below glacial cirques, this trip follows the gentle Fern Lake Trail 1.8 miles to The Pool, then climbs south to campsites at Fern or Odessa Lakes (mile 4.8). Next morning, after admiring the sunrise lighting up Notchtop Mountain, continue south to a junction near Bear Lake. Head back northward past Mill Creek Basin and Steep Mountain for 3.9 miles, then bear right on Cub Lake Trail to return to Moraine Park, passing meadows where elk, mule deer, and coyote hang out.

Tonahutu Creek/North Inlet Loop
During the glacial ages, most of the snow that fell here built up on the east side, carving those rugged faces the crowds come to see. The west side is different: less jagged, with space to explore and full of sweet-smelling spruce. Starting near Grand Lake, this 21-miler includes half a dozen miles of tundra hiking along the spine of the Continental Divide. Weather permitting, drop your pack on the Divide and spend several extra hours rim-walking the eastern edge, staring down at near-thousand-foot walls and towers. This fantastic loop isn’t unknown, but you won’t be elbowed off the trail. The one thing you’ll compete for is a campsite just below timberline. The Renegade and July campsites are popular (reserve in advance). For more solitude, explore off-trail terrain, which you’ll share only with wildlife.

The name is a crowd repellent, but snow actually melts out of the Never Summer Mountains in the northwest corner of the park as early as May. Then it’s open for backpackers to scramble its almost-13,000-foot peaks and marvel at a geographical anomaly: The Continental Divide loops southward here, and for about 6 miles, all east-flowing waters reach the Pacific and west-flowing waters head for Mississippi. The choicest weekend (or longer) loop goes up the Colorado River Trail and down the Grand Ditch Trail (10 to 15 miles round-trip). Each trail is unique: The former parallels the uppermost reaches of the stream that eventually carves the Grand Canyon; the latter follows an unused gravel road along a canal carrying water toward the parched eastern plains. Look closely, and you’ll find abandoned mines and the archeological remains of Lulu City, which once supported them. Little Yellowstone at the northern end recalls the bright white and yellow volcanic rocks of that famous Wyoming canyon.

Courtesy Photo

Moab, Utah, the gateway to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, will surround you with the warmth and hospitality of a small resort town at the center of some of the most stunning red rock landscapes on Earth. The town’s unique combination of beautiful red rock scenery, two national parks, and the cool waters of the Colorado River has made it one of the most sought-after destinations in the American Southwest. Let Moab be your basecamp for world-famous mountain biking, hiking, canyoneering, four wheel driving, or river trips of any length and difficulty level. For a more relaxing visit, grab your camera and enjoy the scenery along Moab’s three Scenic Byways and in the nearby national and state parks. There’s also a thriving arts scene, and shopping for Western souvenirs and clothing.

For more information:

(800) 635-6622
discovermoab.com

Make sure to explore the other attractions in Goshen County, too. Visit the Homesteader’s Museum, the Western History Center, and Cottonwood Country Club Golf Course on the banks of the North Platte River. You can also enjoy countless recreation and hunting opportunities, including Hawk Springs State Recreation Area and Springer Reservoir; check out local vineyards and Wyoming’s largest winery; or shop downtown Torrington. With many lodging and dining options, Goshen County is a perfect place to rest, relax, and explore as you follow the Oregon Trail.

For more information:

(307) 532-3879

goshencountychamber.com

Photo by Crystal Sagan

Alpine

1. Winter Park and Mary Jane

With more than 3,000 acres of skiable terrain and 25 lifts, Winter Park is big enough to have runs for every skill level but small enough to feel manageable on daytrips and quick family visits. Denver and Boulder locals like it for that reason, and because they rarely spend as much time driving compared to the I-70 resorts below. The mogul skiers also love it because neighboring Mary Jane (the resorts have one owner and are connected by lifts) is a paradise for advanced skiers, with numerous bump runs and ultra-steep glades. Winter Park is the closest resort to Grand Lake on the west side of RMNP. Info: winterparkresort.com

2. Vail Resorts

At least once in his or her life, every skier should drop into one of the ungroomed back bowls at Vail. Long, open slopes and curvy aspen glades await, as does some of the deepest, lightest snow in the Rockies. To traverse the massive landscape at Vail on a storming powder day is, quite simply, one of the best skiing experiences on the planet. Of course, with 5,300 acres of terrain and 350-plus inches of snow a year, there are enough other runs and hills to keep you busy for years (which is good, because Vail attracted more than 1.7 million skiers last year). Vail is about 100 miles west of Denver on I-70, and weekend winter traffic can be epic. It’s also worth checking out three other Vail Resorts properties on I-70: Beaver Creek, a large, family-friendly mountain just west of Vail; and Keystone and Breckenridge, slightly smaller areas east of Vail and closer to Denver. Fair warning: Life-list powder ain’t cheap. You’ll pay close to $100 (or more) for a one-day lift ticket (buy an Epic Pass if you’ll be skiing 5 days or more), and meal prices are steep, too. Info: vail.com

3. Farther afield

Colorado is so blessed with great skiing that many Denverites never get farther than the I-70 corridor. But out-of-towners looking to settle into one resort for a week should consider a few of the state’s more far-flung spots, all of which stay less crowded than the metro-area hot spots—and offer unique attractions. Steamboat Springs, about 3 hours northwest of Denver, is known for its long season, consistent snow quality, and soak-the-aches-away hot springs. Telluride, about 7 hours west of Denver, is a gorgeous, high-end town that feels more like the Swiss Alps than western Colorado. And Wolf Creek, about 5 hours south of Denver, is legendary for monster storms that dump up to 5 feet of snow at once.

X-Country

4. Eldora Nordic Center

Connected to the Eldora alpine ski resort—a favorite of Boulderites for its proximity from downtown (only 30 minutes)—this high-country park offers 25 miles of trails for classic cross-country skiing, skate skiing, and snowshoeing. Don’t be surprised if you’re passed at warp speed by skinny skiers in spandex; Olympians train here, as do many über-fit locals. Eldora is the closest major resort to Estes Park on the east side of RMNP. Rentals are available on site (eldora.com).

Backcountry

5. Jones Pass

For more adventurous skiers seeking solitude, untracked champagne, and wild turns through aspen glades and steep chutes, sign up for a day of cat skiing with the guides from Powder Addiction. Based in Winter Park but skiing in the Jones Pass area south of there, these powder pros know the slopes and bowls here well enough to lead you to runs where the snow is thigh-deep and safe from avalanches. Rental gear is available, and all food, water, and avalanche safety tools are provided. For prices and availability, go to powderaddiction.com or call (970) 726-5442.

Photo by Jon Dorn

A goal for thousands of visitors every year, the park’s highest summit offers the hardy, well-prepared hiker a top-of-the-world panorama of jagged summits and lake-dappled high country. Here’s how to plan your own assault.

Do I have what it takes?
A successful hike up Longs Peak via the popular Keyhole Route requires a pre-sunrise start and 7.5 miles and 4,800 feet of climbing to a 14,259-foot summit. The first few hours stick to smooth but steep trail, then at the Boulderfield the route becomes a rocky scramble with occasional narrow sections above cliffs where a slip could kill. Wind, cold, and thin air all mount as you ascend, draining energy and warmth. If those challenges–and the grueling descent via the same trail–don’t deter you, it’s worth a try.

When is the best time?
Critical sections of the Keyhole Route are often snow-covered until midsummer, so most climbers should aim for late July through early September. It’s wise to start your 10- to 18-hour round-trip hike around 3 a.m. so that you can reach the summit by noon and start descending before the peak’s almost-daily afternoon thunderstorms.

What special gear do I need?
For strong hikers without vertigo, no special climbing equipment is necessary. However, we highly recommend a helmet, both to protect against falls on the sometimes slippery boulders and to shield against rockfall from hikers above you. And less-experienced climbers or groups with young people might want to carry harnesses and rope to belay some of the more exposed sections. In addition, pack at least four quarts of water–the Boulderfield is the last chance to fill up, and it’s not guaranteed there–plus snacks, a warm hat and gloves, raingear, and a puffy jacket for the summit.

What are the biggest risks?
Storms and falls cause the most injuries and fatalities on Longs. Reduce your risk of hypothermia and lightning by packing warm and waterproof clothes, by leaving early in the morning, and by turning around if dark clouds form or you see lightning in the distance.

How can I train for it?
The best workout for hiking is…hiking. Throw 20 pounds of gear in a daypack and head for a nearby hill (or stairclimber). Start with moderate efforts of an hour each several times a week, working up to longer, more-intense sessions with one full-day hike on the weekend. Make sure to break in the boots you plan to wear on the summit attempt–new footwear can cause trip-killing blisters if you don’t.

Do I need a permit?
If you plan to dayhike Longs without camping overnight past the trailhead, no permit is necessary. If you’re backpacking to a backcountry site, check out the latest fees and more details at nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm.

How long will it take?
Ultrarunners routinely make the 15-mile roundtrip in about six hours, and an acclimatized hiker who doesn’t dawdle can eke out 12 hours. Most mortals should plan on about 16 hours, though.

Where can I camp?
Backpackers can reserve established backcountry campsites with outhouses at the Boulderfield (highest campground in the national parks), Battle Mountain (group site), and Goblins Forest. There is also a popular drive-up tent campground at the Longs Peak trailhead. Reserve in advance, as all sites go fast.

Where is the trailhead?
From Estes Park, take CO 7 south for 10 miles. Turn right toward Longs Peak Campground (marked by a big brown national park sign). At the top of the road, turn left into the trailhead park lot. Permits required for overnight parking.

Where can I find a map and route information?
Our colleagues at BACKPACKER have a full trip report with photos and directions, plus interactive maps that you can print and GPS data that you can download to your phone or GPS. Go to: backpacker.com/hikes/22760.